It is completely understandable that, as a collector, you likely how found some of the watches you have tried on recently to be boring. So many times, one will put on a watch and realize that there is little to get excited about. In the pursuit of sales, watch brands can sometimes just rinse and repeat the same tricks over and over again because they know the mass market will enjoy them.

But this was not always the case. In fact, looking at the catalogues of brands from the 30’s and 40’s, brands offered such a wide array of watches. Their approach was to try and design watches that would interest a ton of consumers. A different approach? Yes. Equally as effective? Depends on your definition, but one can argue, Yes.

Bulova was a brand that demonstrated this principle very well. Take a look at this advertisement from 1940, for example. A wide array of watches for both men and women with different models to choose from that satisfy the tastes of consumers.

Take, the watch at the bottom left of the advertisement - the Bulova ‘Rite Angle’. Comparing it to the other watches, it differs in design and aesthetics. Interestingly, the watch has quite an interesting background. These watches were originally launched in 1938. According to Bulova, the watch case design was done for a very specific reason:

“Bulova presents the Rite-Angle - a sensational new idea in a man’s watch. Gracefully raised at one end - at the rite angle to your eye, you see the full dial at a glance. Choose from seven handsome models - all 17 jewels. Right in price, right in your line of vision, the Bulova Rite-Angle is the greatest improvement in the wrist watch since the advent of the wrist watch itself”.

So, the purpose of the extremely unique case design from Bulova was so that the wearer would be able to easily see the time on their wrist. There were many ways watch companies tried to achieve this very goal. Some watch companies rotated their dials so that it would be easier to see at certain angles. Others, like Amida Digitrend, displayed the time vertically, making their watches the ultimate watch to wear while holding a steering wheel.

To go into detail about this version of the Rite-Angle, this Bulova was manufactured in 1938, the year that it was launched. The watches were launched at the price of $29.75, which is equivalent of about $665 in 2024. The watch has a 10k gold filled, wedge-shaped case that is in overall good condition. As their marketing material stated, the top of the watch is raised and very seamlessly slopes down as one follows the case towards the bottom of the wrist.

The case has a triple-stepped design on it’s sides that add to its unique design. The case is curved and hugs the wrist well. The lugs follow the design of the wedge-shaped case, with the top lugs being shorter and the bottom lugs being longer.

The watch has a white dial with applied hour markers and Bulova logo as well as subsidiary-seconds at 6 o’clock. The font of the hour markers really stand out and are similar to the Breguet numbers that are so coveted by Patek Philippe collectors. As stated previously, the watch was released in 7 variations, some with different dial layouts, hand layouts, and dial colours (black dials like the advertisement).

Looking on the case of the watch, one can see a variety of inscriptions. On the caseback, the serial number of the case is visible, along with “Bulova Quality” and “Pat App’d For”. Quite interestingly, this means that the case design was not patent protected when this watch was produced. Of course the unique design and functionality that Bulova created with this watch needed to be protected. It certainly adds a bit to the story of having this watch on the wrist.

The watch runs on the caliber 8AZ manual wind movement. The movement was launched 1938 and is a 17 jewel, manual wind movement. The movement is relatively small, but still very nicely decorated.

Opening the watch, one will not find any markings on the inside caseback of the watch. Looking at other versions of these Rite-Angle’s, one will typically see the “Bulova Fifth Ave New York” signature. One could speculate as to why this particular version does not have the signature. Perhaps it was an early version of the Rite-Angle and so stamping the caseback did not happen. Or perhaps it was polished off. Or maybe it was not sold in New York. Unfortunately, there is no record as to why there may not be a signature.

To me, these types of watches are why vintage watch collecting is special. The design of this watch was made for a functional reason - so it was easy to read the time. Today we sometimes forget about the functional aspect of watches and how important they were. Even if one goes beyond that, the case design is incredibly special and unique. And it gives one confidence when wearing because of how beautiful it is.

Enjoy!