There are a few models of watches that can absolutely be described as classics, and none competes for this title more than the Rolex Datejust. It is a watch that a grandparent might have worn and passed down, or perhaps it is one’s first watch purchased to celebrate a milestone of success in life. No matter the reason for purchasing and owning this iconic model, the person interested in it faces a very common question: fluted or smooth bezel?

The bezel of these watches is not isolated to Rolex models; it also extends to its sister brand, Tudor, in their Oysterdate models. For the sake of comparison, let’s take a look at two Oysterdate models: the Tudor Prince Oysterdate reference 75203 with a gold fluted bezel and gold linen dial manufactured in 1987, and the Tudor Prince Oysterdate reference 74000 with a steel smooth bezel and white dial manufactured in 1984.

Not only do these pieces serve as a good comparison, but they are also on two completely opposite ends of the spectrum: smooth bezel versus fluted bezel, gold bezel versus steel bezel, and gold linen dial versus white dial. When trying to answer the question of which bezel type works better, there are four questions that should be asked.

Preference in Metal

The first and most obvious question is considering the type of metal used in each bezel. Typically, one will find fluted bezels in precious metals, whereas it is very common to find smooth bezels in stainless steel (although one can also find smooth bezels in precious metals like yellow gold or even platinum). Identifying the metal that works best for your preferences can be insightful. Steel bezels will obviously draw less attention than something like yellow gold, as the color stands out much more. One can also consider the durability of the metal; steel might be able to withstand a bit of wear, while softer gold can be more delicate.

Design of the Bezel

This might seem like the most obvious point, but knowing your preference in design is extremely important. Fluted bezels are designed with a ribbed or grooved appearance that reflects light at different angles, providing dimension to the watch. This is in contrast to a smooth bezel, which absorbs more light and wears much flatter. Considering design in isolation is important because if one is looking for something with a bit more shine, fluted bezels are the way to go.

Appearance: Style, Comfort, Statement

The appearance of each bezel type and how it fits with you is an absolute must. The first consideration is style: how the bezel type fits with the way you dress and carry yourself. Fluted bezels can often feel more formal than smooth bezels, especially when made from bright precious metals. So, if one finds oneself in formal settings or wants to wear a watch that is on the dressier side, a fluted bezel can be a positive choice. In contrast, if the goal is to find a watch that can be worn in a variety of settings, a smooth bezel can be a great, versatile choice.

Comfort, the second part, relates to style but has more to do with those who perhaps have more than one style or are trying to figure out their style as they develop as individuals. As mentioned previously, the design of a fluted bezel and the metals used for these pieces can be comfortable to some but off-putting to others. When precious metals are involved, it can feel like one has to be careful when wearing the piece. This might be specific to the comparison today, but a steel smooth bezel Tudor can feel quite at home in many environments and is not a watch that one has to be afraid of damaging. Everyone’s level of comfort is different with these types of watches.

Lastly, there is always a statement being made when one puts on a watch. A smooth bezel watch, especially one like the reference 74000, will often make a much quieter statement than a fluted bezel reference 75203 with a gold linen dial. The perceptions these watches carry are most definitely in contrast, but it will always come down to the preference of the wearer.

Utility of the Watch

Utility really summarizes the comparison of the two bezel types nicely. No matter the bezel type, it is incredibly important to remember that owning, wearing, and loving a watch is an incredibly enjoyable experience and should be celebrated. If one decides on a precious metal, fluted bezel watch, it often means the utility of the piece will point more towards dressing for an occasion. Maybe it is work, formal events, or even simply to add a classic touch to a look. In contrast, a steel smooth bezel watch could point to a more utilitarian, everyday aesthetic, where flying under the radar and getting a job done is more important. But it’s important to remember what’s even cooler about this discussion: at the end of the day, it is your own decision.

Maybe your smooth bezel reference 74000 will be what you wear for formal occasions because you simply are not a fan of having your watch stand out as much as a fluted bezel 75203. To each their own, and to each their enjoyment of the hobby.

Enjoy!