Hobnail Case Finishing, the Elgin Date Automatic

When it comes to case design, watch companies have many options to consider. Shape, material, thickness, size, and lug design are some ways cases can be differentiated. But, another consideration watch companies consider is the finishing of a case. Many companies stick to brushed and polished sides of the case. But there are other ways to finish cases that can make certain watches unique in their own right.

This Elgin is one of those watches that utilizes a different way of finishing - hobnail finishing. But before exploring hobnail finishing, it is worth understand who Elgin. The Elgin National Watch Company was a US watchmaker founded in 1863. Their headquarters were in Elgin, Illinois in the USA. They had factories in this area and produced their first movement in 1867. The watch was named the B.W. Raymond in honor of one of its founders.

The company continued to produce watches into the 20th century and were pivotal in producing self-winding wristwatch movements in the USA, including their caliber 607 and 618 bumper movements and the caliber 760 and 761 movements. They sold watches under various names including Elgin, Lord Elgin, and Lady Elgin.

During World War II, like many companies, they stopped production to help with the defense industry in producing military watches, chronometers, and items to be used during the war. The company eventually discontinued US manufacturing in 1968 and sold the rights to their name.

The watch today is an Elgin produced in the 1950’s, so towards the ends of the companies existence. The watch has a 10k rolled gold case in good condition. The case features a hobnail finishing on the top of the case. The lug has short, sharp lugs. The watch features a light grey, sunburst dial with gold applied hour markers and Elgin name. The watch has rectangular hour and minutes hands. The watch has a date complication at 3 o’clock with a gold applied window. The watch runs on an automatic movement.

Identifying a lot of information on this watch has been difficult. One thing to note is that on the back of the watch, one can see “10K R.G.” written next to a star. This is indicating that the watch has a 10K rolled gold case. The star indicates who the case was manufactured by - Star Watch Case Company. Star Watch Case Company was founded in 1899 in, you guessed it, Elgin, Illinois. They eventually moved to Ludington, Michigan in 1906, but clearly Star and Elgin continued their relationship in watchmaking.

What makes this an important detail is the way they finished the top of the case. As mentioned, they used a technique known as hobnail finishing. There are many watches that use this finishing on their dials, some from this era, both also in the modern day today. Today, one can think of the Patek Philippe reference 5226G which has a hobnail case design similar to this Elgin. Clous de Paris or hobnail patterns are made by creating small, square protrusions on the case. This can either be done with a machine, or more commonly done by hand. On the Elgin, the pattern is done in a circular motif which aligns the squares with the square, cushion-like case the watch has. This finishing is not as common as polished or brushed cases, so it gives the watch a unique feel.

Sometimes as a collector, you want something that is a bit different than what everyone else wears. Elgin certainly is a brand that, because they cease to exist in the form that they were founded, is one way of wearing something different. Add an interesting case finishing and one has the perfect formula.

Enjoy!