The Bulova covered today has been an extremely interesting watch to research. Identifying the model has allowed for a lot of information about historical Bulova models to be discovered. Furthermore, the watch is a great example of how Bulova marketing worked during a time period where the brand dominated the watches worn on wrists.

To start off, this watch touches across a ton of different models for Bulova. To describe the watch, This Bulova was manufactured in 1968 based on the “M8” date code seen on the caseback of the watch. The watch has a 10k gold filled case that is in good condition. The watch has some very interesting, spider-like lugs that angle towards the wrist making the watch sit true to size at 31mm in diameter. The watch has a signed Bulova crown, with a large “B” printed into the relatively easy to use crown.

The dial has a sunburst pattern and is in attractive condition with applied hour markers and Bulova logo. The hour markers have a concave design, where the center of the hour marker is indented, providing depth to the watch. There is a small scratch between 9 and 10 of the dial. The watch has it’s date complication at 3 o’clock with a gold applied window. The window makes the date stand out nicely and matches the attractive look of the dial. The watch also has gold sword hands.

Now with these details, the next step is to identify what model the watch is. The first stop is always using what is written on the dial. 23 Jewel watches were a staple for Bulova. In fact, they had an entire line of watches that were part of this group, and we covered an extremely attractive Bulova President with a cool shield-like case.

Watchophilia did a great article on the Bulova 23 Series, but to summarize, the line of watches showed up on the market around the mid-1950’s and were produced for about 10 years. There were other watches that had “23 jewels” written on the dial, but were not technically part of the over 100 models produced as part of the Bulova 23 series. Now based on the date of manufacture of this watch, it likely came after the series, being that the latest advertisement known for these models was in 1963.

Some other research finds a model that looks very similar to this watch, which is the “Beau Brummell” series. These watches were made from the late 1940’s through the early 1970’s. There is a version of the Beau Brummell that uses the exact same case as this watch has, but it has the distinguishing factor that makes a Beau Brummell a Beau Brummell - diamond indices.

So with the Beau Brummell out of the way, the next feature that could be used is the complication to identify this watch. There is a model known as the Time Center - again, the same case, same design layout, but these models had roman numerals for hour markers and instead of ‘automatic’ written on the dial, one will see ‘selfwinding’.

Unfortunately, it is unlikely that this watch is a Beau Brummell, Time Center, or part of the 23 Series from Bulova. Cases were often used for many models from Bulova. This watch is likely a standalone model that was produced after the 23 Series. The case is quite remarkable, especially the way the lugs are designed and can easily be enjoyed on the wrist.

The watch runs on the automatic caliber 10CPACD movement. This is the same movement that was used in Time Centers, another reason why the possible match was identified. This caliber appears to have been used throughout the 60’s and is a work horse, 23 jewel movement. The finishing is also quite cool to look at - it has the bronze-tone to it, like many Omega’s of this era, with a large automatic rotor.

Of course, caseback markings always have to be inspected and with this watch, they really tell a lot about how Bulova was using technology in their watch to demonstrate why the watch was a reliable purchase for their potential customers. Looking at the back of the watch, one will see a variety of technologies used. Starting from 12 o’clock, one will see the Bulova name, followed by “10KT G.F. Case”, which indicate the case metal of the watch. Then, continuing clockwise, “Shock Resistant” is written on the caseback. This is feature that became very important for consumers because without it, watches could become inaccurate due to the shock that a watch undergoes from the movements of the wrist.

At 6 o’clock, one will find the date stamp, along with the case serial number. Then, one will find “Anti-Magnetic”, “Self Winding”, and “Water Proof”. Now consider for a moment that one did not have time available as easily as one has today. The wristwatch was one of the only ways, and so having a reliable watch was something consumers really wanted. All these features would make a wearer at ease with the watch on; they would not have to worry about winding it, they would not need to worry about its’ accuracy being that it was shock resistant, water proof, and protected against magnetism. So when Bulova would showcase this watch, they really would be able to abate any concern from their buyers.

Now just because the watch ticks all the boxes regarding its reliability, doesn’t mean this watch was not an aesthetic choice. The case design gives the watch a bit of an edge, and the complications are useful. The sunburst dial and gold applied hour markers are also extremely legible and there is an art to making simplicity, beautiful.

Competition was fierce, as it is today, in the watch market. What was Bulova’s way to to compete in this market? They showcased the reliability of their watches and produced beautifully designed watches.

Enjoy!