The Battle of Class and Value: Comparing Longines Spirit and Hamilton Khaki Field

When a timepiece appears in the plot of the award-winning Interstellar movie, it gets the public's attention. Similarly, when a reputable 188-year-old company releases an entirely new collection, it attracts the attention of watch enthusiasts.

In Interstellar, Mathew McConaughey uses the Khaki Pilot while his daughter uses it to communicate in Morse code. Meanwhile, the Longines Spirit collection is less than five years old (at the time of writing).

The point is that the Hamilton Khaki Field and Longines Spirit are iconic tool watches that anyone with class and a love for fine watchmaking would love.

Let’s examine these evergreen watches to showcase the best in different settings. Put simply, you’ll discover which collection is better if you’re in the market for style, budget, complications, movement quality, and more.

Let’s dive right in.

Both Come From Storied Backgrounds 

One thing guaranteed when considering either of these watches is that you can always boast of their rich history.

Hamilton was established over 130 years ago when the company started creating pocket watches to time locomotive trains and stop accidents. They are particularly famous for supplying the U.S. military with chronographs and field watches during WWI and WWII. So, when the company released the Khaki Field collection around 2010, it carried the essence of these watches in design and quality. Although the original watches weren’t exclusive to the armed forces, the new Hamilton Khaki is now a top military watch for entry-level enthusiasts. 

In the same coin, Longines's history and horological culture are well-known to enthusiasts. Longines, one of the most famous watch brands in the world, has a history that dates back over 192 years. It has a well-documented culture of creating fashionable exploration watches for pioneers across land, air, and sea. So when they released an all-new Longines Spirit collection with a 5-star rating in 2020, the watch world was in a chokehold.  Longines Spirit watches are more than simple pilot watches; they are also a tribute to the brave pioneers in aviation.  

Design and Style

The two juggernauts have almost identical dials and complications but vary by a mile when buying Longines Spirit watches with a rotatable bezel. Some examples are the Spirit Zulu Time and Flyback Chronograph watches. In light of this, the comparison will focus on only bezel-less or base-model Spirit watches. 

Longines Spirit

The three-hand Spirit models with time or time-and-date resemble the Khaki Field pieces. Like the Spirit collection, they’re touted as time-traveling watches because they seamlessly combine a vintage look with a strikingly modern and polished appeal.

Longines Spirit watches have a simple round case with a straight lug design completed with either leather or stainless steel bracelets. 

All Longines Spirit models have distinctive bold Arabic numeral markers and baton hands. The markers and hands are patinated and Swiss SuperLuminova. Date models come in two exciting variations: half–in–half with 3 o’clock or without the 3 o’clock hour.

There are some attractive colors, from the classic matt black to the refreshing silver-like champagne dial to the daring sunray blue dial. What’s more, Longines allows you to configure the watch to taste (dial, bracelet, and size) without sifting through the many options. 

Hamilton Khaki

Khaki Field watches also have a striking round case design with bold applied Arabic numerals. The dial features both 24- and 12-hour time formats. The glass is sapphire crystal, like the premium ones in Spirit models.

While the Khaki Field collection does have complication variations, like the Spirit collection, the design remains simple across the lineup.

However, if you hold a Khaki and Spirit watch side-by-side, the difference in the quality of finish on the dial, hands, and indexes jumps at you. Spirit watches are miles ahead in this department. Nonetheless, you can also tell the Hamilton Khaki is not a pushover and can take a beating.

The Longines Spirit's elegant design and refined finish suit formal events and daily wear. Its robust construction ensures durability without compromising on style. In contrast, the Hamilton Khaki's rugged aesthetic and sturdy build make it perfect for outdoor activities and casual wear. Even so, its slim profile makes styling with formal wear possible. 

Case and Sizes

The two collections offer multiple sizes and material choices, depending on your preference. We’ll start with the casing.

Hamilton Khaki Field and Longines Spirit have a stainless steel case construction with 100 meters of water resistance. They even have lookalike designs except for the length and shape of the lugs. What sets them apart is the level of finish and attention to detail. Khaki Field watches have fine brushed patterns on the lug and along the sides. On top of the bezel is a reflective polished finish. There’s a titanium Khaki model, too. The collection offers case sizes of 38mm, 40mm, 41mm, 42mm, 44mm, and a super-sized 50mm piece.

While the Longines Spirit is also a rugged timepiece, it has a more aesthetic finish. Size options range from 37mm to 40mm for the three-hand model, but complications models can range from 42 mm to 45mm. Whatever the size, Spirit watches have an exceptional brush finish and spectacular polish on the bezel. Around the sides, down to the closed case back, you can see the brushed finish that’s arguably as smooth as the polished finish of the Khaki Field. 

Overall the case quality and finish on both watches is astounding. But if you value attention to detail and can pay four times for it, Longines Spirit is your ideal timepiece.   

Movement and Accuracy

The movement quality debate about both watches can be a mess. One has a shorter power reserve and offers quartz models, while the other uses strictly high-accuracy self-winding movements.

All Longines Spirit watches use L888.4 movements, an in-house modification of the ETA A31.L11. They are COSC-certified, but this Longines-upgraded version has a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

The Hamilton Khakis carry the H-10 movements—ETA C07.611 base—that boast 80 hours of power reserve and accuracy up to +/—2-3 secs per day. They also feature 25 jewels (four more than the Longines) and snail and pearl finishing. Hamilton also offers hand-winding (h-50) and quartz Khaki movements.

It’s important to note that the Khaki Field's high power reserve doesn’t translate to higher accuracy or better quality than the Longines L888.4. The opposite is the case. In addition to being chronometer-certified, the L888.4 has better craftsmanship, synonymous with five-star Longines watches. A tiny but significant feature contributing to this upgrade is the presence of a silicon balance spring in Longines Spirit watches for improved accuracy and durability.

Longines Spirit vs. Hamilton Khaki: Versatility and Comfort

The comfort of a watch is primarily based on its weight and whether watch components, like the crown or lugs, fit into your wrist. Both watches pass the test, but since this is a battle, a winner, Hamilton Khaki, must emerge. The Khaki Field models have an insane weight-to-size and thickness ratio compared to the Spirit collection. For instance, a 41mm Hamilton Khaki Expedition is only 48mm from lug-to-lug and 11.65mm thick, while a 40mm Longines is about 12.20mm thick and 49.7mm from lug-to-lug. This means the Longines Spirit will be larger and heavier on the wrist.

Considering versatility, material and strap colors are vital factors. Both brands offer many options in this regard, they serve you with stainless steel, leather, and NATO or textile straps. But Hamilton goes a step further with a titanium case and bracelet offering. You can style both watches for formal and daily wear as they’re both tool watches. However, if you want a timepiece that’ll go with you everywhere, the Khaki is the go-to watch because it’s cheaper. 

Value for Money

When it comes down to it, does the Hamilton Khaki offer the best value for the money?

The answer depends on what kind of watch enthusiast status is being asked. For an entry-level enthusiast, the Khaki Field offers the best —heritage and craftsmanship—at an outstanding price. You get to buy a 100+ year-old brand with a high-quality automatic movement and solid finish for under $1000. Plus, the added choice to pick an open caseback model to appreciate a watch movement as a beginner enthusiast.

On the flip side, a seasoned enthusiast or person whose attention to detail borders on obsession would prefer the Longines Spirit. This watch offers the prestige of the most regarded luxury watch brands, culminating in a significantly better resale value. It also has a noticeably better finish and build and is COSC-certified for accuracy. 

Conclusion

The Longines Spirit and Hamilton Khaki are undoubtedly great military watches. They embody both brands' dedication to instilling their roots into modern innovations to make evergreen watches. 

The Khaki Field, historically the “Original American Army watch,” is functional and affordable. Its dial is legible, and it has multiple time formats, lume indicators, and a rugged case that can withstand the activities of the average user. 

Longines’ Spirit watches dial into the brand’s era with pioneering explorers in the aviation industry. Like the Khaki Field, they are functional and enjoyable to wear and offer the luxury of elegance and industry-leading precision. 

Overall, the Longines Spirit and the Hamilton Khaki excel in their respective ways. The Longines Spirit is the ideal choice if you prioritize elegance and precision. However, the Hamilton Khaki offers unbeatable value and performance for outdoor enthusiasts and budget-conscious buyers.