The Best Watches of 2022 Jaeger LeCoultre, Universal Genève, Bulova, Girard Perregaux
The last year has been full of some incredible watches. Watch brands have taken innovation to the next level, and vintage watches have remained strongly part of the conversation with collectors. Naturally, we are going to take a look back at some of our favourite watches covered on the website this year.
If you are interested, check out our previous versions of this series from 2019 and 2021.
Vintage chronographs fairly popular back around 2010/2011, and the popularity has sustained. What has not sustained, though, is the availability of good examples of some of the popular models. Universal Genève has been at the top of many collectors lists for exquisitely designed chronographs from the 50’s and 60’s. The example we were able to experience was so popular, we did not even have time to make video or article about it!
It was the reference 12445, a 34mm 18k yellow gold uni-compax with an exceptionally clean dial. It also came with the original box, which added to the romance of the piece. It ran on the caliber 285, a robust Universal movement. The two sub-dial, dial had aged beautifully and had patina-ed to perfection.
Triple calendar, or full calendar, watches are on many collectors minds. The complications are often done in a way to create a very classic look, much like the Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet annual calendars produced. Jaeger LeCoultre needs no introduction, but their triple calendar watches may need one. They produced a few versions of these watches, the one we managed to get our hands on as the reference 2904.
The watch had a stainless steel, 36mm case and dated to the early 1940’s. The triple-stepped case and claw lugs really made this watch stand out. The lugs were fairly long, which meant it fit larger on the wrist. The dial had aged nicely and held the original design elements at heart.
It is not a secret. Alarm complications are something that Life on the Wrist has covered expensively. Most of the time we are looking at the Memovox’s from JLC, but there are so many other brands that released watches with the complication. One of those brands, Girard Perregaux, released a few references, but the one we got our hands on was the reference 9091.
The stainless steel, 35mm watch was a testimony to the 70’s in watchmaking. Somewhat obscure but unique case shape screams 70’s design. The manual wind caliber GP 11 offered a different display for the alarm complication compared to the Memovox. Nothing better than a complication that is wearable and a great conversation piece.
Bulova divers have a very special place in the minds of collectors. The brand has a rich history of producing significant dive watches that were used heavily by professional divers. The 666 feet divers, known to some as ‘Devil Divers’, have extensive literature written about them due to the vast array of references produced.
The reference 386-1 was the version we got our hands on. 35mm, stainless steel case with hour, minutes, lollipop seconds and a date at 3 o’clock… oh and a beautifully aged black dial. Strapped to a beads of rice bracelet, it was just too much fun to wear.
Sometimes, you don’t need complications. All you need is a time-only, beautifully designed watch. LeCoultre produced many examples of the less-complicated, and the Master Mariner we had in took the cake. It is exactly that, a 35mm, 10k gold filled, time-only watch. On the surface, some may say that the lack of frills could be off-putting. But, a closer look is really what one needs.
The watch had gold applied hour markers, a gold applied JLC logo, and then, what really is he cherry on top, a beautifully written cursive ‘Master Mariner’ that makes one want to put on a tux and grab a cocktail at a jazz bar.
There was a ton of diversity this year, and it will be interested to see what comes in 2023.
Enjoy!
