The 40's Style, 1945 Universal Genève reference 20508 in Steel

The 1940’s were an incredibly influential time period for the world. If one things about what happened during this time, it was defined by World War II, the Holocaust, atomic bombs, and the beginning of the Cold War. It is also when the United Nations Charter was established, the British rule of Burma ended, the radar, Jeep and Tupperware were invented, Bing Crosby and Frank Sinatra were best selling pop artist, and even when Casablanca and Gentleman’s Agreement won Oscars.

Needless to say, this time period shaped a lot of what is known today. Often, one can see the ethos of a time period through literature, art, and even watches. This Universal Genève is a perfect example.

So the watch is a reference 20508. This reference is not one that is very known or popular but there is some documented history of this watch. For example, it appears that for the 1947 Sugar Bowl American Football game where Georgia played against North Carolina on January 1, special versions of the 20508 were made with customized dial and inscription on the caseback. One can find more about this here.

This version of the reference 20508 was manufactured prior to this event, in 1945. The watch has a steel case made of Enversteel, which is an early steel alloy. The case has been polished, which is noticeable by the softer top of the lugs while the bottom of the lugs remain strong. The watches lugs are long and angle distinctly towards the wrist.

The watch has a white dial that has aged nicely. The watch has what appears to be radium filled hour markers and a 24 hour display. The first twelve hours are large, and hours 13-24 are in red font and run around the outside of the dial. The watch has beautifully aged blued-steel hands that match the dial.

The watch runs on the caliber 267 manual wind movement. The movement was used approximately around the 1945 time-period and is time-only in complication. The movement is 12.5 lignes, oscillates at 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph) and has 38 hours of power reserve. Universal Genève movements were very well built, may lack some of the aesthetic finishing one can find on movements from brands like Vacheron Constantin, but are extremely high quality.

When one looks at the dial of the watch, one can really see the 40s and its influence on society. This watch does have a military-feel to it, with a no-nonsense steel case and 24 hour display. The movement is extremely robust, and the dial has aged like a fine-wine, similar to 40s music. Even small details like the fact it has a screw-down caseback provides the wearer with a feeling of sinewy comfort. Much of what happened during the 40s involved ruggedness, and a resilience was needed, just like this watch.

One of the greatest time periods of watchmaking was the 1940s. Despite a lot of turmoil, the 40s were also an incredibly influential time period for the world as well. Universal Genève was a big part of that and this reference 20508 is a great example.

Enjoy!